Where to eat
Calabria’s food is both bold and comforting. This is cucina povera at its most potent, with classic dishes you’ve probably never heard of that have been shaped by necessity, geography, and tradition rather than trends. The no-frills cuisine is defined by high-quality ingredients, fresh-from-the-ocean seafood, and unusually spicy dishes—by Italian standards, anyway.
In Tropea, a town often called the “Jewel of Calabria,” one of my favorite meals is at Vecchio Granaio, where the fileja con ’nduja is a non-negotiable. The hand-rolled pasta, coated in Calabria’s iconic spicy pork spread, is rich, fiery, and deeply satisfying. It’s the kind of dish that explains the region better than words ever could.
For aperitivo or dinner with a view, nearby Deodato Lounge Bistrot offers one of the best balcony seats in town. Sitting above Tropea’s main public beach, you will quite literally be floating over the water as the sun sets. The food is consistently good, but the view and the vibes are the real luxuries.
In Catanzaro Lido, a beach town along the Ionian coast, meals tend to be simple and communal. At Lido De Fazio, a small beach club also known as Mastro Ciccio Beach, lunch might be a five-euro bowl of pasta al forno with eggs. It’s a simple meal that’s filling, nostalgic, and exactly what the day calls for after a swim and hours spent in the sun. Head to any number of local gelaterie afterwards for a delicious and refreshing sweet treat.
Over on the west coast, in Pizzo Calabro, evenings often revolve around pizza at Forte della Monacella, an absolutely gorgeous restaurant with an outdoor terrace overlooking the sea. Follow it with a walk along the lungomare and a tartufo gelato—a chocolate-covered ice cream ball with fruit at the center—the decadent dessert the town is famous for.
