I have been traveling to Berlin every few weeks (for work) for years. To this day, there is still nothing better for me than visiting the city for a weekend in my free time. There is always something new, and nothing better than my old favorites—for example, since my very first visit, my top restaurant has been the Goldener Hahn in Kreuzberg.
Ahead, I’ve put together a three-day breeze through the city that I would plan for myself, from my favorite hotels to set as home base, where to have breakfast, and which parks you can’t miss.—Dennis Braatz, Head of Editorial Content at Condé Nast Traveller Germany
Where to stay
Waking up with a view of the Brandenburg Gate? That’s only possible in one of the famous Pariser Platz suites of the iconic Adlon Kempinski. Also in the area, in Mitte’s buzzy center and only a few steps from the Brandenburg Gate, the Chateau Royal features one-of-a-kind guest rooms decorated by local and international creatives. (It’s modern, chic, and sexy.) If you’re on a budget and still want a trendy crowd, The Hoxton is an affordable place to stay in West Berlin with an interior that taps into West Berlin’s Art Deco heritage—plus many great shops and boutiques are close by.
Set in an elegant skyscraper in West Berlin, and just around the corner from the shopping boulevard Ku’damm and Germany’s number one department store, KaDeWe, the Waldorf Astoria also has a massive gourmet food hall. The ultra-modern, cube-like KPM Berlin Hotel Residences stands on the 18th-century Royal Porcelain Manufactory complex. Rooms are clean and functional, and major sights like Tiergarten and the Berlin Zoo are 10 and 15 minutes on foot. And if you’re up for an escape from the city, the grand landmark mansion Schlosshotel Berlin is tucked behind tall iron gates in West Berlin’s peaceful Grunewald district.
Day 1: A Mitte Deep Dive
Breakfast spot: A caffeine fix at Matchasome
Matchasome
Berlin’s first café dedicated exclusively to matcha culture offers an excellent selection of drinks and pastries. Just the right (read: easy) start into a day of exploring.
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Morning activity: A stroll through one (or two) museums
Museum Island
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a cluster of five museums that offer an impressive mix of architecture and culture. In a single visit, check out the Old Museum, New Museum, the Pergamon Museum, Bode Museum, and Old National Gallery, nestled between the Spree and Kupfergraben. You’ve got plenty of time to dig into at least one of the amazing collections.
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Lunch spot: A classic at Borchardt
Borchardt
You can’t visit Berlin without having the city’s best Schnitzel—and a look at some of its socialites who gather around here every day.
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Afternoon activity: New outfits at William Fan
William Fan
This designer is known for his timeless designs that play with gender boundaries and textures. Definitely make time to visit his utterly beautiful flagship store.
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Dinner: Some serious spice at Restaurant Tim Raue
Restaurant Tim Raue
Prepare for some spice—star chef Tim Raue is known for his Asian-inspired cuisine, and his restaurant on Friedrichstraße holds two Michelin stars.
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Evening activity: Drinks at Victoria Bar
Victoria Bar
The dinner might take long, but if you’re up for a nightcap—or two—Berlin is all about nightlife. The Victoria Bar is the perfect way to ease into your later hours.
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Day 2: Big Architecture
Breakfast spot: A full spread at Frühstück 300
Frühstück 300
Getting a late start to the day? Frühstück 3000 serves up eggs Benedict and pancakes well into the afternoon. (My favorite is the location in Schöneberg.) From there, you can quickly reach what’s next on our itinerary.
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Morning activity: Shopping (and history) at KaDeWe
KaDeWe
Opened in 1907 by Adolf Jandorf at Wittenbergplatz, the Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) in Berlin is Germany’s largest luxury department store. During the time of the country’s division, it acted as a symbol of West German economic prosperity before becoming a modern, multi-floor shopping icon. You could spend hours here.
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Lunch spot: Stall hopping at Die Sechste
Die Sechste
KaDeWe’s gourmet food hall is located on the sixth floor—Berliners often come here just for this. One oyster and a glass of champagne quickly turn into two. You move on, eat a broiler (Berlin’s version of grilled chicken), or a raspberry tart. It’s just a matter of where your cravings take you next.
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Afternoon activity: A matinee at Friedrichstadtpalast
Friedrichstadtpalast
Built between 1981 and 1984, the Friedrichstadtpalast is the most prominent example of GDR postmodernism. Inside, you find Europe’s largest revue theater, where designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier regularly provide the costumes. The best move is an afternoon performance on the weekend.
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Dinner: Moody vibes at Goldener Hahn
Goldener Hahn
This hidden place in Berlin Kreuzberg serves the best spinach salad in the world, amazing pasta, full-bodied red wines, and music that you’ll Shazam right away. It’s dark, cozy, and addictive.
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Day 3: Essential History
Breakfast spot: The buffet at Bel Etage
Bel Etage
Whether you’re staying at the Adlon or elsewhere, everyone should try the breakfast buffet on the Bel Etage at least once. It’s more lavish than anywhere else in the city, and includes three different types of caviar.
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Morning activity: A necessary education
Lunch spot: Must-have currywurst at Curry-Baude
Curry-Baude
The Gesundbrunnen station can be a bit rough around the edges, but it’s the place to find the best currywurst in town. Its secret: not one, but two sauces. The first is enriched with crunchy onions, has a pleasant spiciness, and is poured over the second, a fruity tomato recipe.
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Afternoon activity: A dip at Stadtbad Neukölln
Stadtbad Neukölln
Time to relax! The large and small swimming halls of Stadtbad Neukölln are lined with 23-foot-high columns, walkways, and mosaics. Swimming here feels like being somewhere else on this planet. (There are also saunas.)
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Dinner: Retro eats at Luna D’Oro
Luna D’Oro
Ever heard of Mettigel? It’s a popular German party dish from the 1950s-70s, consisting of seasoned raw minced pork (Mett) shaped to resemble a hedgehog (Igel). This restaurant in the heart of Clärchen’s Ballhaus—a dance hall that has been in existence since 1913—made it cool again, and many other German dishes.