Southern Crete
Crete’s cities as well as most tourism infrastructure are based on the northern half of the island. A few mountain ranges cut it in half, making the windy trip from north to south and vice versa time consuming. This means some visitors never go to Crete’s bottom half. It’s a big mistake—huge!—because how else would you see some of the most pristine coastlines and charming fishing villages Greece has to offer?
What to do
Book a boat day with Annie and Christos of Sailing South Crete, a husband-and-wife operation that focuses on this less tourist-y southern coast. With their yacht, they can whisk you away to some of the island’s most sumptuous swims: a deserted beach next to Iligkas, Glika Nera Beach, and the caves of Marmara Beach. There’s usually snacks and drinks on board, but a stop at Loutro—a car-free fishing village mostly accessible by boat—can get you a more robust meal at one of the waterfront tavernas. (They offer a variety of itineraries, too, which could include Balos plus the uninhabited Gramvousa island.)
For a more accessible beach excursion head to the southern side of Rethymno—about 30 minutes from the Old Town: Preveli is considered one of the most stunning thanks to the sandy beach and crystal-clear water. But for even more idyllic waters, Gogos recommends the untouched beaches in Agia Fotini, Triopetra, and Agios Pavlos. “You can see a fisherman pull his catch from the waters and take it straight to the kitchen,” he says.
More active travelers should strap on their hiking boots and take on the Samaria Gorge. It’s a challenging trek, but you’ll walk past Venetian castles, throwback villages, farmlands, and fabulous views. At Sarakinas Gorge—on the eastern side of the island, a short hike can lead to swimming under waterfalls.
It’s also worth exploring Ierapetra, considered Europe’s southernmost city. Its main beach—a long black-pebbled stretch—is an easy sun-bathing perch or for some watersports, but once you’ve had enough, you can also visit the old Venetian-era Fortress of Kales as well as the city’s collection of historic churches. Ierapetra is also where most depart by boat for uninhabited island of Chrissi, a protected nature reserve where you may spot lizards, rabbits, and 100-plus species of birds as you sunbathe on pure sand beaches.
Where to eat and drink
Crete’s southern coast is full of modest yet lively fishing villages full of open-air restaurants. La Sera in Mirtos, Alatsi in Ierapetra, and Pavlos in Loutro are worth looking into. At Spilia tou Drakou (or Dragon’s Cave Tavern), you can tuck into fish cakes, lamb ribs, and snails with vegetables plucked from the owner’s garden.
Where to stay
Numo Ierapetra Beach Resort Crete, Curio Collection by Hilton looks like it could have been pulled directly from the beaches of Ibiza or Tulum. At this adults-only hotel, expect minimalist interiors built around dark wood, a foundational palette of off-white, and lots of wispy sheer curtains. On top is a laundry list of wellness and fitness initiatives; the aromas of Asian fusion wafts from the kitchen, and vibe-y DJ sets by the pool. Group trips, however, can use Picturesque Vantage, a modern five-bedroom villa near Agia Galini Beach, as a luxe homebase.
