As an Australian living in Italy, I grew up within an hour of some of the most pristine coastline in the world, so the Italian penchant for private beach clubs is something I’ll never quite grow accustomed to.
Along some of Italy’s most naturally beautiful stretches of beach, from the Amalfi Coast to the Cinque Terre, private, exclusive beach clubs and five-star hotels occupy the best patches of shoreline. The natural beauty that made these places famous can feel increasingly roped off.
In Australia, beaches are natural places to be shared. There’s a more relaxed approach to bathing along open stretches of sand framed by nothing but trees, rocks and dunes. For those seeking a back-to-nature holiday, here are six of Italy’s most beautiful free beaches where the coastline remains untouched and open to all.
Riviera del Conero, Marche
The Riviera del Conero is the Marche’s most precious jewel, in a region still largely unchanged by mass tourism. You’ll rarely hear any language other than Italian as it’s all locals and other Italians on their summer holidays.
Set against a stunning backdrop of limestone cliffs covered in pine trees, a series of protected bays with clear green-blue water and white pebbles make up this stretch of coastline within the Conero regional park.
Sirolo is a long, natural beach at the end of a meandering downhill walk through the trees. There’s plenty of space to lay down your towel on the smooth rocks, with the option of paid chairs and umbrellas, too.
Portonovo Bay offers low-key retro 60s beach clubs and long stretches of free beach. Ristorante Emilia has been the standout lunch spot here since 1950, serving up their signature spaghetti with mussels prised by hand every morning from the nearby rocks.
In Sirolo, San Michele Relais & Spa has doubles from €108, and Camping Village Internazionale has cabins from about €100
Gargano, Puglia
While southern Puglia’s beaches are at the top of many travellers’ bucket lists, the rugged Gargano peninsula, which juts out from northern Puglia into the Adriatic, is far less known. Part of Gargano national park, it’s full of rocky coves, quiet bays and long pebbled beaches framed by olive groves.
Portogreco, a tiny cove and popular free beach, is framed by sea caves and rocks perfect for high diving, and offers fantastic snorkelling in the clear waters.
Vignanotica is a long, skinny pebble beach, backed by a sheer limestone cliff that mercifully shades the shoreline by late afternoon in summer.
Make the scenic trip an hour north along the coast for lunch at Al Trabucco da Mimì in Peschici for fresh seafood caught and served on a traditional wooden fishing platform. Order the mixed seafood grill to sample it all.
HMO Glamping in Vignanotica has tents from about €110, or Baia delle Zagare resort in Mattinata has doubles from €150
Ponza, Lazio
A favourite summer escape for Romans, the island of Ponza sits a short ferry ride from mainland Lazio. Pastel houses cluster around a port town unchanged by time. The island opens up into wild coves and quiet swimming spots, the best ones accessible only by boat.
Frontone, the island’s longest beach, is reached by water taxi from Ponza. While some of the shoreline is occupied by beach clubs, there’s still plenty of free beach, and savvy locals know to perch on the rocks at the southern end.
Some of Ponza’s most spectacular swimming spots, such as Chiaia di Luna – a crescent-shaped cove surrounded by soaring orange cliffs – are accessible only from the water, so hiring a dinghy or a captained boat is part of the experience.
Take lunch at Ristoro da Gerardo, which has the best views over Frontone from its rustic raffia-shaded terrace. The homestyle menu offers aubergine parmigiana alongside Ponzese octopus stew, and dessert is figs picked onsite. Guests are invited to stay for a post-lunch nap on loungers shaded by trees.
Hotel Chiaia di Luna has doubles from €115
Pantelleria, Sicily
Closer to Tunisia than Sicily, this slow-paced island feels completely removed from mainland Italy and offers full immersion in the elements. Without a single sandy beach, visitors and locals lay down their towels on the flat volcanic rocks and dive into the clear blue water, amid arid, wind-battered landscapes.
Balata dei Turchi is a secluded bay of volcanic rock at the wilder southern end of the island that is ideal for snorkelling, with clean waters and submerged rocks teeming with bright coral and fish. Nearby at Nikà, underwater thermal springs bubble up out of the sea while you swim.
Laghetto delle Ondine lies at the end of a short hike across otherworldly volcanic terrain, where waves crash against the walls of calm rock pools the size of swimming pools.
At sunset, snag an outdoor table at Dispensa Pantesca in Scauri for an antipasto plate of local specialities, including Pantelleria’s aromatic capers. Or book a more formal dinner in the courtyard next door at sister restaurant La Nicchia.
Stay in traditional dammusi (houses made from volcanic stone) at Pantelleria Dream Resort near Kamma from €170, or at Dammuso Biancolilla near Scauri from €140
Elba, Tuscany
Part of the Tuscan Archipelago, Elba lies 35 miles (55km) east of Corsica, with similarly clear waters and mountainous terrain. Still relatively under the radar outside Italy, the island has 90 miles of coastline, scattered with wild bays and tiny beaches. It’s larger than many visitors expect, so where you base yourself makes all the difference.
Nisporto is a quiet, unspoilt bay enclosed by pine-covered hills at the end of a winding road, giving it a secluded feel, even in summer. The flat sand-and-pebble beach and the gentle waves make it perfect for families with kids. The transparent waters and seabeds rich in marine life are great for snorkelling, or rent a pedalo or canoe to explore the coastline beyond.
In Portoferraio, book dinner at Teatro Bistro for the spectacular views from the terrace, and order the spaghetti with cured mullet bottarga, a Tuscan coastal delicacy.
In Nisporto, Residence La Cota Quinta has apartments from about €80 a night (three-night minimum stay) or Sole e Mare camping village has bungalows from €400 a week for two
Maremma, Tuscany
Just outside the walled city of Grosseto, the regional park of Maremma stretches from the Uccellina mountains to the Tyrrhenian Sea, protecting one of Italy’s most untouched coastlines.
The park’s wild sandy beaches are completely devoid of umbrellas, bars and beach clubs, the only structures being improvised driftwood forts providing refuge from the sun.
Marina di Alberese is the most accessible beach inside the park, the shoreline stretching for miles. Traipse along the coast to quieter Collelungo, or reach it on foot or bike via trails within the lush park.
Easy cycle paths, with bikes and e-bikes readily available to rent, lead through the park from Grosseto to the beaches, passing herds of horned Maremma cows and wild horses.
Stop for a tasting plate of cheeses made at dairy La Maremmana. Their speciality is the buffalo mozzarella, and they’ll pack up extras to take away for a picnic at the beach.
Agriturismo il Melograno di Banditella in Alberese has doubles from €120 B&B
