“Mirazur is in an absolutely magical part of the French Riviera, between the ocean and mountains, straddling Italy and France,” says Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco, who has spent the last two decades running the fine-dining destination in the seaside town of Menton. “It’s where I found my kitchen, and myself: Mirazur was my first restaurant, and a place where I could experiment while also tapping into the region’s rich gastronomic tradition.”
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This year marks three-Michelin-star Mirazur’s 20th anniversary, which Colagreco is honoring with a special collaboration menu in April and May. For the occasion, Colagreco is joined in the kitchen by Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli fame, who is applying his famously molecular approach to Mirazur’s most iconic dishes, remixing the emblematic menu with a hit of nostalgia for loyal diners. But what holds true is that every single plate will continue to celebrate the French Riveria’s bounty—with just-plucked-from-the-Med seafood, to hinterland-sourced herbs, and an approach that manages to feel elevated and welcoming at once. Because, ultimately, this is how the region has shaped Colagreco most as a chef.
“What still excites me about the French Riviera and the nearby Italian Riviera is a very refined tradition,” says Colagreco. “Even when there are rustic dishes, there is a refinement to every recipe. Flavors of seafood are never too strong, the plates are never too heavy.” It’s a balancing act that Mirazur diners past and present know well—and that Colagreco sees in the nearby eateries that he frequents during days off.
For those planning a trip to Mirazur and the surrounding area, we asked Colagreco about the French Riviera restaurants that are currently inspiring him—that’s to say, where he eats when he steps out of his own kitchen. There are humble family-run spots and next-gen tasting menus from Mirazur alum, on both the French and Italian side of the border. Consider this your guide to eating like Colagreco does in the French (and Italian) Riviera.
Nice, France
Must-order: A pichade or a daube Nicoise
Chef Dominique [Le Stanc] is one of the great chefs, who earned two Michelin stars at Le Negresco. One day he got tired of leading 50 cooks at the hotel and decided to buy this little spot, which was owned by a very traditional family from Nice. It fits 18 guests, and he does classic Nicoise food. You’ll always find the same dishes made with high-quality products, and incredible technique. You might find, for example, a pichade, which is a typical tart from the region with a tomato base—almost like a pizza, but with a different type of dough, made with olive oil. You can also try a daube which is a typical dish made with stewed meat. I love to go in the spring between May and early June, when he makes a cherry dessert that is simple but impressive—it’s one of the best desserts I’ve ever had, made with just macerated fruit, a little cream and mint, and nothing more.
